Israel for Beginners

For those of you have been reading my blog for awhile now, you know that there are many wonderful cultural things to do here in Israel BUT there are certain arts that still lag here - ballet being one of them. Therefore, I rushed to buy tickets for the Swan Lake performance by the Mariinky Ballet (formerly Kirov Ballet) at the Caesarea Ampitheatre. The ballet was long and stone stadium seating was not so comfortable (cushions are sold) but it is one of the most outstanding cultural events I have attended here in Israel. New York might rival in terms of pure performance but the ambience of a world-class performance in the outdoor Caesarea ampitheatre at just the right time of year cannot be beat.

The Hurva synagogue in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem has actually been built and destroyed several times since originally established in the early 18th century. In 2010, the restoration of the synagogue was completed and the building is now open to the public. One hour tours (given in both Hebrew and English) convey both the architectural beauty of the structure, as well as its rich history. Make sure to join one on your next visit to the Old City. Hurva Synagogue Tour - Old City, Jerusalem -02-626-5900 or hazmanot-rova@012.net.il - RESERVATIONS A MUST

I had high hopes for Armando - a kosher fish and meat restaurant facing the Tel Aviv promendade. The view of the Tel Aviv beach delivered but the rest of the dining experience left much to be desired. The food was mediocre - not at all justifying the high cost of the meal. You would be better off boxing up your own dinner and sitting on the promenade - same outstanding view at a much lower price. Armando - 88 Herbert Samuel Street, Tel Aviv

Where else but in the Yemenite Quarter can you hear the person who serves you a cappucino at a trendy coffee bar sing traditional sefardic shabbat songs? Most tourists visit Neve Tzedek or the Port when visiting Tel Aviv but for true authentic insight into the ethnic side of Tel Aviv, a tour of the Yemenite Quarter is a must. Once again, the tour (in Hebrew) by the excellent Doron Ozer and sponsored by the Tel Aviv Municipality hits all the the beaten tracks of this area of Tel Aviv that has not yet been gentrified and is rich in tradition. And the eating stops along the way (chumus/pita/Yemenite bread) were great! Tel Aviv-Yafo Municipality Tours - for a list of tours and times go to www.telaviv.gov.il or call 03-516-6188

Gzuztra is one of those places to take visitors when you want to wow them. Gzuztra is a concept restaurant - the concept being that portions are small so that each diner is expected to order two or three dishes and to share among the table. But that is not what will impress your tourist friends. What will impress them is the full wall of glass facing the ocean. Even at night, the restaurant gives an impressive feel; I can only imagine that during the day or at sunset the effect is stunning. As for the food, it was actually quite good. The sushi (served only at dinner) was terrific. My husband thought the fish and chips were fabulous. And I very much enjoyed the Asian chicken salad. The only cautionary note is that because the dishes are small, you tend to order many reasonably priced items but ending up with a high bill. Gzuztra - 100 Ramot Yam Street (on the sea near Accadia Hotel), Herzlia - 09-954-8806 Reservations highly recommended

This restaurant so disappointed on every level that I wasn't even sure I should bother writing about it. Located one block in from the Tel Aviv beach, Prime Grill bills itself as "meat at its best". Prime Grill in New York (no connection) truly fits that description but the meats of Prime Grill in Tel Aviv were completely mediocre. The service was poor. And to top it all off, the prices were high. Not worth a visit. Prime Grill - 60 Herbert Samuel, Tel Aviv - 03-510-0266

By now, you should know that one of my favorite places in Israel is Mahane Yehuda ( the marketplace or shuk in Jerusalem); as such, I am quite familiar with the ins and outs of the market. I still enjoyed and learnt from the tasting tour of Mahane Yehuda given by Tali Friedman, a trained chef. She takes participants to her favorite food stalls and provides anecdotes at each stop. But the highlight of the designated stops are the tasting samples which included borekas , dried fruit and nuts, spiced dishes, and halva . At the fish store, Tali prepared tuna ceviche on the spot - both a visual and culinary treat. Afterwards, we went up to her charming cooking studio and rooftop garden, located right above the marketplace. There, we got a small tutorial in cheeses (all bought at the shuk ) which we proceeded to nibble to sample with glasses of wine. Tours can be given in English or Hebrew. Tali Friedman - www.haatelie.com - to schedule a tour or cooking class call 050-461-9687...